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Chris Gannon wrote: > > Kathy- did you use the recommended paper with Lysonic inks. The paper base > is as important as the ink! > > Chris > - This is not entirely true. While the base paper is important. You definetly do not have to use the "recommended" paper. In some instances you can even get better results with papers the ink manufacturer (OR SELLER) never even heard of. When an ink manufacturer decides on an ink formulation it is usually through one of two processes. In one they have a specific paper that they want to make an ink for. In the other, which is the usual scenario, they have an ink they think is pretty good and then go out looking for papers that will work on it. What they are looking for is not necessarily the best paper for the ink, they could be looking for the highest margin on a paper and ink combination. As long as the ink works well on the paper, they may not neccessarily want the BEST paper, it may cost too much. In other instances the ink seller may have decided on a paper because they didn't know about another brand and then it is to late, because they may have signed contracts with another coater or manufacturer. The trick with archival printing is finding a ink and paper combination that works. As long as the paper is of an archival nature, ie.. low to no lignin content, has a neutral to alkaline pH, low to no alum-sulfate in the paper making process, is buffered with calcium carbonate or some other buffer and has the proper mordants and is relativly begnin to the dye stuffs you should get good results with a variety of papers. The only trick is finding them. This list is a good source for that purpose. -- John Goerger www.weber-valentine.com Toll Free 1-800-323-9642 USA ONLY 1-847-439-7111 Fax: 1-847-439-6887 - Please do not include an entire message in your response. Delete the excess. http://www.leben.com/lists for list instructions.
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