Re: "Gas up" your Epson Cartridge

["Dick Adams" <dick.adams@bigfoot.com>]

Thanks for comments.  Seems I attempted to reinvent a certain
wheel.  And it seemed a bit square.

Here is some progress:
http://home.att.net/~dick.adams/coax_gasser.jpg

The black "nozzle" is a section of vinyl insulation I stripped
off some RG174-U narrow microphone cable.  Probably this
came from Radio Shack.  It is a very fine tight fit in the Epson
fill hole.

(I wish I could resolve the drawings in WeInk's PDF files --
probably it is the same idea, except that the silicone tubing in
my rig is very resilient, and can be simply shortened if it
suffers from being punctured too many times with the needle.)
The silicone tubing is 1/16 ID, 3/16 OD.  You all call the thing
that joins the tubing a "barb" apparently.  It is a barb with unlike
ends that joins the silicone tubing to the black vinyl "nozzle".
(The nozzle takes a size larger than the silicone tubing does.)

So, does that mean I am vacuum filling my cartridges? Not at all.
Still chicken.  Really I do not understand vacuum.  Seems to me
that, if I follow the usual instructions for vacuum filling, I'm
gonna "boil" my ink.  Why would I want to boil my ink?

I have discovered the brake bleeding hand-operated vacuum pump,
complete with vacuum gauge, at the auto parts store.  Why did no
one tell me about this? It will pump a dry cavity down to almost
-14.7 psi.  (A wet cavity it will pump down to the vapor pressure
of water.  If there is an organic solvent in ink, that will
probably rule).  It is good for the car, too.  Does anybody bleed
brakes anymore?

So who can tell me how much vacuum I should try to achieve before
admitting the ink to my cartridge?

Why is John Mills telling us that it does not matter what the
orientation of the cartridge is during filling? Well, I guess, if
you let the ink sizzle into a pretty hard vacuum, it is gonna be
helter skelter, like opening a warm, shaken bottle of Mountain
Dew.

---
DickA







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