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Robert and John, I was just reviewing a days shoot and simply applying levels to this image when I happened to notice the tremendous about of useable detail in the shadow area. Having previously read this thread, I thought was it a good image to demonstrate the differences, so I kept the manipulation as simple as possible. (Adjust>Levels, Right slider to ~200, Center slider to ~64). I the image was for publication, I would doubtlessly have done it differently. John's workflow sounds very like my own. Good idea John about numbering the saved curves, levels, etc. . I normally work in a set order, however, numbering would remove any guess work, not that I would ever forget anything ;-). Regards, Mark K. On Fri, 24 May 2002 09:41:47 -0400, you wrote: >> Then I would have applied different corrections for each >> selection and saved the image as *.psd, i.e. with the curve >> corrections. That way I do not change the origional image and can make >> as many changes to the curves/levels as I wish. I use this always with >> 8-bit after making major adjustments in 16-bit. If there is a better >> technique (and I am sure there is) please give us some more info. >> >Robert Meier > >I don't know if it is better but I spot and then save as a >16-bit compressed tiff. I make a duplicate file and go to >8-bit in order to use selection tools, saving the selections >which then can be loaded into the 16-bit file. Then, working >on the 16-bit file I seperately save every curve, level, or >HSL adjustment I make along with any associated selections. >This lets me go back to any point in the original image at >any time and redo the whole process. Eventually I go to >8-bits for any very local adjustments most easily done with >tools like replace color. A folder with the spotted tiff, >all the adjustments numbered in order, and, for convenience >in reprinting, the final printed file is archived. - Turn off HTML mail features. Keep quoted material short. Use accurate subject lines. http://www.leben.com/lists for list instructions.