Re: 16 bit editing...
Robert and John,
I was just reviewing a days shoot and simply applying levels to this image when
I happened to notice the tremendous about of useable detail in the shadow area.
Having previously read this thread, I thought was it a good image to demonstrate
the differences, so I kept the manipulation as simple as possible.
(Adjust>Levels, Right slider to ~200, Center slider to ~64). I the image was for
publication, I would doubtlessly have done it differently.
John's workflow sounds very like my own. Good idea John about numbering the
saved curves, levels, etc. . I normally work in a set order, however, numbering
would remove any guess work, not that I would ever forget anything ;-).
Regards,
Mark K.
On Fri, 24 May 2002 09:41:47 -0400, you wrote:
>> Then I would have applied different corrections for each
>> selection and saved the image as *.psd, i.e. with the curve
>> corrections. That way I do not change the origional image and can make
>> as many changes to the curves/levels as I wish. I use this always with
>> 8-bit after making major adjustments in 16-bit. If there is a better
>> technique (and I am sure there is) please give us some more info.
>>
>Robert Meier
>
>I don't know if it is better but I spot and then save as a
>16-bit compressed tiff. I make a duplicate file and go to
>8-bit in order to use selection tools, saving the selections
>which then can be loaded into the 16-bit file. Then, working
>on the 16-bit file I seperately save every curve, level, or
>HSL adjustment I make along with any associated selections.
>This lets me go back to any point in the original image at
>any time and redo the whole process. Eventually I go to
>8-bits for any very local adjustments most easily done with
>tools like replace color. A folder with the spotted tiff,
>all the adjustments numbered in order, and, for convenience
>in reprinting, the final printed file is archived.
-
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